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Curiosity has got me asking the question as to would it be possible to create a system of metal halides from one ballast with a rating higher that the needs of the lamps? i.e. 3 * 150 from a large ballast. Would this be possible? Thanks for your time Ben

Yes such a ballast could be made. It would cost much more than 3 individual ballasts would cost at present. Have a look at optic fibre lighting for another version of your idea. At about $2000 each they are merely a great idea. See http://www.nutrilifeproducts.com/whats_new.htm for a look at the next generation of lighting.

Now what has curiosity got you thinking?

:-) Scott

Can you please tell me if you can buy a conversion kit to make a 1000w metal halide balast into a 1000w h.p.s.

Sorry, the amperage and voltage output is not the same. You should get nearly as good results with a Metal Halide if you use one with added Reds.

Scott

Setting up lights

16 June 2003

I have 2 questions at this stage. 1) I’m thinking of a 400w HPS light system, however how is it installed? Would I need an electrician? Or into a power socket? Any instructions on how to install it yourself? 2) I have an area 0.6mx1mx1.5m, what type of reflector should I use? A large or small one for that small area? Thanks for your help; I'm hoping to get in touch with an order soon. Thanks, Jess. PS. The questions on your web page are VERY informative, good job on keeping them up to date and so informative! 

1/ 400Watt plugs into the wall. Normal home appliance. Too Easy!

2/ Use a small or medium adjustashade reflector small will give you less heat.

3/ Thanks for the support. Answered 32 Questions today and my eyes have gone square looking at the screen!

Will go home at 5 o'clock one day

Scott

Light reflectors designs
13 June 2003

I was thinking of setting up a 600 watt light with a homemade reflector, which will cover one square meter. My question is one on reflection. I wanted to use ordinary mirrors to make up the reflector, setting all the angles for even light over the area. Does the light need to be diffused, or will the plants be fine with all the reflections from the mirrors... 

Reflectors are VERY OVERRATED!!!!! Use any old horizontal unit, should be fine. If you wanted to make a perfect reflector, you would work out where the plant is, the distance and angles are easy to work out. Then the plant grows and the light is moved. SO think about making the whole growing area a reflective surface.

Mirrors, well I hate them! But they are 95% reflective - or are they???? In fact in the visible spectrum that plants use, the mirror is not much more effective than a white surface that diffuses the light - that is, doesn't provide a true reflecting but reflects in a general direction. Mirrors tend to produce hotspots than burn the plants if they are unfortunate enough to grow into that spot. Also the heat of the light is radiated around the growing area - which is a bad thing where we are in Queensland.

I use an M shaped reflective design, and always use white. 

Scott

Wardrobe setups
12 June 2003

Hi Scott,

I'm interested in buying a wardrobe set up.  I'm going to plant between 4 - 5 seeds.  What set up would best suit me?  I've been told I need fluros for the babies til they have say 3 sets of leaves and then they I'll need more light than a fluoro is capable of providing, and it all seems a little confusing, :).  As I am growing it in a wardrobe I have no way to ventilate at all, but I have also been told ventilation isn't all that necessary and that simply opening up the door will be enough ventilation.  Please suggest some set ups I should be looking at.

Hello

1/Plant seeds in Rockwool cubes or Perlite. Get them cold before you strike them as they need an increase in temperature first. Dry Tupperware container in the fridge for 3-5 days. Keep them form getting cold again by selecting an area at home that doesn't get cold.

2/ Id recommend a system that's simple first time. Perlite in Pots, hand watered until the saucers are full of nutrient, or a network system - see www.hydrocentre.com.au/network

3/fluros are ideal, or indirect light indoors is okay to begin them. Until they have 2-3 sets of leaves they have not many roots, and too much light dries them out, and the moisture they need to replace is difficult to keep up with when the roots are small. Later it is easy for a larger set of roots. Growing under a 400Watt is possible, just avoid too much heat and maybe get some shade cloth between the seedlings and the light.

4/ It is absolutely critical for you to understand this - Opening the doors is Bad!

Keep them closed, and have a fan sucking air out of the top of it to a window or into the ceiling, and have inlet vents down low (or another fan) drawing in air as long as the air being drawn in is fresh, not stale. If you have the fans going and open the doors that is also bad. Image a bottle of water, take the lid off. The water won't get fresh. Try pouring fresh water into it. It just overflows. You need to give plants food - Carbon Dioxide, and you need to get rid of the air once its had the carbon dioxide extracted and more air put back in. So in terms of our bottle, pump water into the bottom, or drain it out and pour fresh in the top, any way that keeps the bottle full of new water.

Plants without fresh air die. Wardrobes with open doors cause overheating of the plant because the air is not moving around the plant, and the air is getting hotter.

Have a think about these points, and try to find a way to get air in and out. Then let me know so I can help you further.

Scott

What's the best way to ventilate a room with no noise
11 Jun 2003

I am growing in a loft and it's hot and humid, yield is low and tops are stretching when close to the light. I think an extractor fan would be too noisy; there is some airflow in gaps in the felt under the tiles but not enough. Also how big should tanks be for 8 plants under a 400w? This questions page beats most I get on ask.com and nice one Scott for your patience and expertise. 

Thanks *bows*

You need to make sure you get the air changed over 10-20 times per hour to ensure fresh carbon dioxide for the plants, and more if heat is an issue.

A Fan can be noisy sure, and you have to live there too, and your neighbours need their sleep as well. Centripetal/centrifugal type fans look and sound like a jet engine. Avoid those. Tube Axial fans and ball bearing bathroom fans are fairly good, but you'll need to check them for noise levels first. Under 50dB in the specs is ok, under 40dB is great as a rule of thumb. From there you can reduce the noise further. You should look at using one that is fairly quiet, reduce the power with a normal light dimmer (not a fan speed control) and/or hang the fan to avoid noise transferring through the roof or walls through contact vibration, and/or insulate the fan. If the fan is normal then the motor is in the centre, and the blade spins pushing air past the motor, thus cooling the fan's motor. If you run an insulation slab, blankets, sound foam, etc around the fan without impeding the flow of air this will absorb a lot of sound. As for fan noise travelling down the ducting or out the window, try a sound absorbing material in the duct, but have the duct turn at that point. E.g. carpet the inside of the tube, just where it turns 90 degrees. The sound waves hit the carpet, and the air flows past. The wider the turn, the less effect on the rate of airflow.

There are some ideas. I am sure you could think of others. If your neighbours complain after you think its quiet.... put in an outside pond/fountain. The trickling water is all they'll hear, and it is so restful it might put them to sleep more easily than yelling over the fence,

Hope it goes well

Scott

Is reverse cycle air conditioning suitable???? 
19 June 2003 

Hello,

I have just set up my new room and it contains a reverse cycle air conditioner. So that I can regulate the temperature at a constant all year. But I have heard that this may not be so good for the plants as they dry the air out. If so, what can I do to over come this. It is the type of system that can change between heat and cool cycles automatically. I use a lot of lights and have a heat problem, but then when the lights go out, it gets too cold. So I thought that I could cure this problem with the automatic system.

What do you advise using??? 

We have a great deal of growers using Air conditioning.

Ok, airconditioners usually have a heat or cool function. Bigger units may do both, but for us mere domestic growers, we might have a problem looking for a dual function unit. I suggest you either use the air con as a heater, and use lots of fan power during the hot period, or use the air con to cool, and have fairly minimal fans overnight.

By that I would say, at least 15 minutes every 2 hours. The lights can heat up the room in the rest of the night period. Beware of the humidity going higher when the fans switch off. You may end up with mould on your plants if it’s bad. Use yourself as a guinea pig; move the TV in there and spend some time in there.

It is true that air-conditioners dry the air, and dry air on the plants may make plants dry out faster than they can replace the moisture from their roots.

The effect is that the leaves dry out. 

However, in a growroom, we don't appear to have that problem, as we set them up differently.

In a growroom we use the first 10 air changes per hour to provide necessary carbon dioxide from fresh air for the plants.

Without Air-conditioning, we would then use another 90-140 air changes per hour to avoid heat build up, and if heat does not build up, we reduce the time the fans are on or slow the fans to avoid drawing too much cool air into the room.

However with Air-conditioning, we can set a temperature using the temperature gauge instead of using lots of fans.

The practicality of this is, if you heat or cool the air, but exchange 10-20 air changes per hour you keep the air carbon dioxide laden, and stop the air from becoming much drier than normal outdoor conditions. If those conditions are already dry, well the air conditioner is not the problem. I live in Queensland, and as such we know about higher humidity, and air conditioners are fairly common, and don't cost a lot to run, usually depends on your level of fan power. The main thing is it dries the air, which increases out potential for growth rates.

The only time a real drying effect occurs here is when the conditioned air is blowing onto one section of your crop. It is beneficial to ensure a fan in the room causes the conditioned air to mix around, not be directed all at one poor defense-less plant.

Seems like common sense after a while. Why not sit in the room and see where it’s hot and cold, and do something to change it when you feel uncomfortable. After all, plants grow well in the same climate you grow well in.

Scott

powering a 70 watt HPS lamp
30 Jun 2003

I have a 70watt HPS lamp bulb but I don’t know what to use to light it up and get it working, do you have any suggestions? 

Hello there 

HPS lighting systems require a ballast choke and condenser - commonly put together in a single box called a ballast or control box.

You would need a 70 Watt HPS Ballast to work you light, and a lamp holder connected to it by a lead.

A reflector would also be necessary to keep the light directed at the plants.

A Hydroponic Store would be your best bet, and an electrical store might be able to help with some of it. Take the lamp with you if you want to ensure you don't get any problem equipment.

The only issue is that you will not have much light intensity. The light will keep a plant alive, but is unlikely to be bright enough to get any good growing, flowering or fruiting.

I'd recommend a 400Watt system, as a 400Watt is very popular and cheap, and a complete system will probably be cheaper than the whole 70watt accessories. I.e. a 70Watt system at my shop is $230, and not even in stock. We have piles of 400Watters and the sell for $160AUD

Hope that’s not too much bad news.

Let me know if Natasha or myself can help in any way.

Scott

How are ya mate! I have been told to come here if I had any questions :-) Only one for the time being :-) What EC would u recommend for veg stage and flowering stage? For a recirculating system. Thanks heaps mate :-) Also if u wouldn't mind. When u introduce new plants to your hydro setups what kinda increments do u use on nutrients to avoid shocking/burning em

Hello

Nutrient Strength is CF or EC and depends on many things

More air flow= more strength or you get stretching

More humidity= less strength because the transpiration rate is slower (For Transpiration read evaporation from leaves)

More temperature=less strength as the nutrients are not used at same rate as water in solution and nutrients will rise in strength causing over fertilisation / tip burn

Plants using more water because it is hotter or the humidity is drier and the nutrients are left behind affect the rate of mineral salt build up in media. Perlite or Rockwool or anything that can hold onto nutrients might have a nutrient salt build-up. If we flush it clean regularly then use normal to slightly weaker (CF=-2; EC=-0.2) or maybe use -6CF to -8CF and not flush. Depends on the level or build up. Are you a good grower and can tell or not? Symptoms often sluggish growth and leaf shape curled (Note: beginners should know these are symptoms of many things, and you need to have eliminated a lot of these other things first) If you can see this happening before tip burn gives it away then you know the flushing or reduction in nutrient strength is needed.

So where do I start. In free flowing NFT, Clay type systems where build up is low, Seedlings at 8-10CF (0.8 to 1.0EC) and grow at 18-24 CF. Stay there until flowering aggressively developing plants will take up to 24CF to 28 CF. The stronger you go the better flowering, sturdier stems and branches, heavier fruiting plants should be. Drawback is the weaker you go the faster the plants grow, the longer the distance between branches/nodes, the leafier, taller the plants will be. Flush (0CF to 8CF) plants for 2 days before harvest to remove excess fertiliser for taste. High CF grown plants could add a day of flushing. If flushing causes CF to rise then dump tank and restart. E.g. you flush with tap water at 2CF, come back in 5 hours and its 8CF, next 24 hours still 8-10CF. The flushing is no longer working. Use plain water again at 2CF, and it rises to 8CF again in a few hours. Best to flush and dump, flush and dump. (If you can do that every week or two see your crop go CRAZY!!!! Highly recommended. Better effect than superthrive or Nutriboost! - I usually only tell this to my full price paying customers - so welcome to the exclusive club)

I also have a page on CF and pH at http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/phcf/index.html

As for new plants, I often run no nutrients or up to 8Cf while introducing them - but sometimes I just don't worry too much, and give them a flush with water so their pot/root area gets a low dose of nutrient solutions.

Hope all that helps you

Scott

Hello how are you going. I have a rough idea of what I wanna do now. Hope you can help me with this as this is going to help me out a lot thanks. Just wondering what is an autopot ? Just someone said that they are good I just need to know are they good and what they do.

see autopot valves at http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/network/index.html  http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/automatic%20systems/index.html and http://autopot.com.au/ 

What are the different types of hydroponic systems EBB n Flow, Drip, NFT and any others. If someone can say the difference and also others I will be very thankful. 

Ebb and flow is a flooding and Draining system usually in a tray with expanded clay beads. Drip Systems are usually just nutrient trickled through pots of Expanded Clay beads. NFT is a channel where 1mm of nutrient flows slowly under the roots that lay exposed on the bottom of the channel. Most popular is Perlite in Pots with saucers, watered until moist.

What area of space do you have in mind ? Well I am hoping something about 1 1/2 Metres High. What are its dimensions (Width And Height). 1 1/2 Metres Height - 1 Meter Wide. What is your budget ? About 500 Aud dollars.

A HID Light kit (Metal Halide MH or High Pressure Sodium HPS). What do you suggest for a grow room that size growing say 4 plants max ?

A 400Watt HPS Agro type covers a 1mx1m area well.

Fans. Do I need a fan in the bottom to let the air in and one at top letting air out is that right or .. ?

Best to have one in bottom and one out at top

Pots Or Buckets system or Top and Bottom system. What do you think is best Top n Bottom system looks neater and easier, but buckets I have got told are better what do you think ?

Not sure what that is. Use http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/satellite/index.html  is ideal

Some Seeds. Well I will get them when I get my setup going good, money has to go towards the system first. Your Medium. Most likely I will use Rockwool if I am using a top n bottom system or if I am using buckets I would use those pebbles - Canna Coco etc ?

Avoid Rockwool - only for experienced growers. In fact, I don't even use it.

Gauges What gauges do I need e.g. - PH and TDS.

Neither - unless you want to.

Pump. What is the best pumps to use and what wattage etc ?

Try Atman, and look for enough flow and head height. Of course I can recommend one to suit your system

Heater. What is the best heater to use and what heat etc ?

Do you need one? Why?

Reflective Material. What is the best reflective material to use ?

White plastic is best. Don't use silver types as it traps heat. Using paint only works if you have time to let the fumes dissipate. i.e. months.

Carbon Filter Should I make my own or buy one for around $400 to purify the air ?

I prefer Ozone than Carbon filters as they neutralize the smell everywhere not just the ducted exhausted air. It means the hallway doesn't smell like plants.

How much wattage do I need per square foot ? As I need to know.

Minimum 400w for 1mx1m, 600W 1.5mx1.5m

Have Fun!

Scott

mate grab a seat lol

Here is what I've got, 1 built in closet with 400hps sontagro white/black plastic lined, ceiling fan in to roof sucking direct in to roof area, flood and drain stacker unit, hydroton medium, osc fan blowing on the plants, a truncheon, ph testing fluid(dropper type), For the nutes im using a happy medium brand grow (made by a shop in browns plains), In this I use Dutch master MAX (the old type before they made one for flower and one for grow), hydrogen peroxide as per instructions on bottle (I brought it to sterilse the stones and decided I might as well keep using it) I will be changing the nutrients to Dutch Master advance (ive read its THE best you can buy (opinions plz)), Iam NEW to growing so brand names info is appreciated, I brought Xtreame flower with potash for the one at my mates place in flower. although what potash does is a mystery. Also what the heck does the Max actually do??(supplier said its the same as superthrive??)

Problem i have now is I want something in flower and something in grow and clones happening all at the same time, but im a poor prick and cant afford much- I have a second flood and drain stacker boxes coming soon- I had to ship my flowering plant off to a mates who had a 600watt setup, so as soon as its finished I will get the boxes and pump back, I will coming down to meet you and buy a light based on your suggestion here,

The current closet is full ceiling height so I will keep that as the flowering room, I have a snake tank (metal mesh on the roof, sliding front doors and venting at the bottom) otherwise a 4 foot fish tank- In this I have a light that I brought that is a compact 28watt fluro in a hood with glass under the light, that is designed to grow aquarium plants, so Iam thinking to keep this as the place for fresh clones to go into, when they are 1st taken as I can controll humity and temp, as this fluro puts off heat, What I need to work out is what to do now- ie should i make a 3rd area and have a motherplant or just keep cloning from the flowering plant? Can I veg under the fluro? or should I get another HPS for vegging?? I have a portable wardrbe type thing that I can modify, or a freind suggested picking up a non-working fridge and mounting a light inside of it and venting etc??? whats my best option here??? If i have an area just for vegging is HPS my best option? I have brought some strains from BigW :) but Ive stuffed up big time, I have them at different stages 2 are 1 foot tall and in the closet with full nutes, 2 are 1/2 the size and should be in 1/2 strength but full hasnt hurt them, and then I have clones that have just rooted?? Am i rooted or what? the biggest ones are going to be damn big if I wait for the smallest ones to veg and then flower?? should i put them together when I would normally flower the biggest ones and then just flower them, Ie hardly any veg.

those plastic stackers that im using for flood and drain hold about 50ltres and are about the length of a single built in wardrobe, but small enough to get them in and out ok, How many plants can I put in of different breeds?? there will be four types is this too small for 4 flowered animals, Ive read about sog and scrog but it doesnt make sense so im just letting them grow. do u sell a frame for scrogging?

Lastly shit your probably asleep by now, Thise is inside my house, for some reason I keep getting these fat little caterpillars they appear from no where (they just appear on 1/2 a leave after they have eaten the other 1/2, I squash em but they keep coming back, I spray with neem, and it helps but then they come back lol, whats the best to piss these off??

My nutrients have me stumped too, I made the mix at about 1600PPM and its increasing everyday even though I have added more water than I started with??? weird or common? I assume they are not eating it for some reason but they are growing fast!, what should my nute strength be using MAX?? The shop I got it from said 1680ppm grow, 1820 flower, if A+B= 1400ppm,

Lastly then I will leave you alone- Smell factor in a small closet are, I looked at ozone but was told its too small of an area, he suggested this gel stuff but said I can also use these block things?? thoughts on thi mate??

Iam gonna come down soon and check ya shop out, how do i get there from XXX??

thanks for taking the time to help me setup, I hope I get all my questions answered but understand your a busy man, especially with that puppy, (whew Iam getting a puppy soon so im gonna know all about it too lol)

cheers

Dutch Master is a good nutrient. Opinion is Powergro is a better yielder. Potash is stored in the plant to increase weight overall. Max may have vitamins and all the fancy metabolites that Dutch master pioneered. Yes similar to Superthrive and Nutriboost. I prefer Nutriboost for the 1-NAA that swells plant tissues. Snake tank is fine for plants. Metal adds zinc, iron, copper etc, so keep it out of the nutrients. Temp of 25 degrees is ideal

A flowering plant will take 8 weeks to finish avg. If you take cuttings at 2 weeks into flowering, they take 2 weeks to root. You can then put them into the system or delay them under fluros Main system, they'll be short and far from the light, but okay. Under fluros (use ACTIVA172 from Sylvania 98% colour rendition) they'll grow really slowly until the system is finished. 4 weeks is maximum under fluros unless some sunlight available. Plants may stretch a little.

Plants in system seem to be fine. The tall ones may block to light so bend them back and maybe tilt the light so you get it shining down and sideways, putting the tall plants beside the light, and the shortest under the light. Just ideas. if reflectivity is high, the plants should be fine. shorter plants may stretch a little but that's okay. You can control the stretching with Bonza bud height regulator.

If you mean producing a carpeting effect with a netting just screw it into the cupboard or get an aluminum frame made off me ($5 per meter and $2.50 per corner) Use Dipel on the caterpillars. Its a bacteria that only affects grubs, and it makes them get a stomach ache so they can't eat. They starve to death. The bacteria stays there. Totally ineffective on any other pest or human

Plant nutrient strength is about osmotic pressure, not the actual amount plants eat. The water usage is greater than nutrient salts so nutrient strength should rise overall. If adding water still gives a higher reading then some salts have built up in the system/media and you should flush the system with water until the water ppm is close to whatever water is normally in your area.

Nutrient strength is as high as you can go without burning the tips or getting leaf turns for best yield. For fastest growth, use half that. Use more if high airflow, less if high humidity, go stronger if too tall, weaker if too short and so on...

So I start with a CF of 10, go to 20-24 for grow and 24-28 for flowering. in ppm check your calibration solution for comparison. If dividing the ppm on the calibration with the CF of the calibration gives you 65, (or whatever) multiply my CF's by 65 (or whatever)

Smell issues, Ozone is best, blocks are just as effective as Glenn 20 Spray etc from supermarkets. 

From North - drive south on M1 to Nerang Broadbeach exit. Go towards the Coast /broadbeach for about 500 meters. Turn Right into Lawrence Drive at first traffic lights ("Campbells cash and carry") and then look for us on the left at number 39 - Shop 17. Our sign says Hydroponics - Gold Coast Garden Supplies. We are opposite Simply Hydro so you can get twice the Hydro in one street.

As for sending me long questions....

v

v

v

There is a long answer for you

Scott 

I was after prices on your indoor Kits for a cupboard. I saw one for $450, with accessories. Can you please email me what kits you have available. 

Hello http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/wardrobe/index.html is a guide on types of systems you can make up.

So here we go. Recommend a 400Watt light $160 Does up to 1mx1m, costs 4c per hour to run, produces some heat so exhaust or air conditioning necessary. Small clip on fan to keep air moving is good. Read http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/gardeningunderlites/index.htm and http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/400kits/index.html 

Two fans, one drawing in fresh air, and one removing the air from the wardrobe into the ceiling or outdoors. 140 cu.mtr computer fans $40 each or better 600cu.mtr fans $50 each are necessary. Plants will run out of air in 5-10 minutes. Make sure the air being fed to them is fresh. Make sure the air that is hot and stale is removed. Forget about achieving anything else except this, or failure is certain. Plants grow best at the same temperature and humidity as you feel comfortable in, so check it out. If you lock the house up all day, how does it feel if you were inside a wardrobe all day?

I think a network kit with 2-3 plants is ideal. around $100 http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/network/index.html That would be pretty fool proof. The other systems that work well are aeroponics $145 http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/aeroponics/index.html or just Perlite in pots with saucers - water with nutrients until moist.

Nutrients are $25 per pack ($60 for bigger packs) and are available in a grow stage or a bloom stage pack. http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/additives/index.htm is a guide to more things you can provide if you want to.

So do you have a wardrobe ready? Sizes?

Scott

Scott , mate - I have seen your cloning setup and it looks the goods , but the almighty dollar is a little strapped and am leaning towards compact fluros rather than tubes - but would prefer finding a 100 or 250 watt unit rather than running multiple 40 watt lights - do you sell these? what is your opinion on this lighting ? I have heard a lot of good things in regards these lights being perfect for the seedling / veg stage ? But would like your say on the matter.

The types of propagation lighting are

Fluro - Cool White - good enough for seed raising and cuttings, but when the plants start to grow, they need to be moved to a better light source or they will be hungry for light, get thin and stretched and unhappy. Ok for plants with some indirect sunlight fillling in the gaps in the spectrum. Plants need to be as close as possible without touching. Max the white reflective surfaces. (Silver may reflect heat - not a problem in all cases) 

Fluro - Full Spectrum - Activa 172 (98% CRI colour rendition index) and similar lamps, good for actual growing as well as propagation. same distancing and reflection. 

Fluro - Grolux - Designed for aquarium plants, the colours are strange, rate like a cool white. Very good for butchers to make meat look more appealing. 

Compact fluros - Warm type - worse than cool white. Use reflector. 

Compact Fluros - cool/neutral type - like the cool white. Use reflector. 

Colour corrected incandescent - Incandescent produce light from a glowing filament. They are hot and their spectrum is red and yellow. A Blue coated incandescent of the colour corrected or daylight type is better, but still gives off heat. Use if light AND heat are required for a cheap solution to seed raising and cuttings. 

Metal Halides come in 400W upwards mainly, too hot and too bright, good for growing, poor flowering. A 68Watt kit at $200 is about the maximum for propagation. Anything brighter would need some shade cloth as protection. 

Agro type High Pressure Sodium - HPS with added blues - Good growing and flowering lamp, small wattages hard to find.

As always the best way to spread light is to use lots of little lights up close, than one bright source and spread it as the light diminishes the further you get from the source. Propagating close to a bright lamp tortures cuttings/seedlings, while those on the outside starve for light. NASA is working on a plant lighting system that uses a wall/ceiling of very small lights like LED lights you have to indicate an appliance is switched on. They believe they can grow plants right up next to the wall/ceiling and have better light spread with less power consumed.

Does this answer your question?

Scott

How's are things mate? I was on the internet looking for a Hydro kit and came across your website. I am new to the game so the wardrobe kit looks great for me. One thing I ask - is the wardrobe itself large enough to have 2-4 full grown plants in it? If not is it possible to have the products installed into another wardrobe?

Another thing is that I live in Melbourne. What would it cost to have it all sent over here? 

G'day, I'd suggest looking for a good wardrobe down there and I can help you fit it out. Anything that big is expensive to freight and I'd rather see you buy something locally that you like. The main things are being lightproof and able to have an inlet fan down low, and an exhaust fan up high. Generally any 1200x500x2000h mm cupboard will give you the same yield with 2 or 4 tomato plants. A bigger area lit up may yield higher. The way plants bush up to fill the lighted area and slow when they run out of light, the results are more related to the lighted area than the number of plants.

Why not investigate a couple of second hand stores and get back to me with some dimensions. We can go from there...

Thanks for the enquiry

Scott

Good afternoon, I am wanting to build an indoor growroom, 2m x 2m thinking of using a 600w HPS dual spectrum kit???? Would you have any better suggestions for such a space??? Also please include prices, availability and transport costs to xxxxxxx including 150/250 micron panda or other reflective plastics with width price and any other you may think of.  Thank you for your time

Hello,

A 600 Watt covers 1.5meters x 1.5 meters. You can reduce the size of the room with Panda film if you like.

600 Watters start at $220 for a small adjustashade and $240 for a large shade. The light would qualify as a parcel and all parcels are free freight to most areas over $50, sender is "R Andrew" and otherwise unmarked. 3 meter wide Panda film is $6 per meter off the roll, or $9 for the extra thick. No freight cost if the total order is over $50 and fits into a box/parcel.

Hope that helps,

We have lots of information we can send you, as well as the information pages at www.hydrocentre.com.au Try also the Question Pages, as growers provide insight into the challenges to running systems.

Have fun

Scott

hi there I'm enquiring about pricing and your north Sydney pick-up address and info for the advanced model of the wardrobe system without a cupboard shown on your site. 

I have a built in which measures 2200mm high x 600mm deep x 1000mm wide, is this a good size for your system? will it fit and would the exhaust fans possibly be too strong for this small an area? 

Does the inlet fan have to suck fresh air from outside of my roof or can it take it from inside my roof, and if it does need fresh air would you possibly be able to give me a tip or suggestion as to how to do it properly so I don't have a gaping hole in my roof tiles? thanks for your time.

All Good Questions.

I have family in the Nursery trade based in Middle Dural. Can give you more information if interested.

Size is not a problem. If you want an easy gravity system (network system www.hydrocentre.com.au/network ) then you would get 2 or 3 large plants or about 6 small plants in there. 

If using an Aeroponics System www.hydrocentre.com.au/aeroponics a 6 pot crate system is 450x 650 plus a small tank as shown in the wardrobe systems (note: Click for the wardrobes new and old brochures)

For that size area I would recommend either 2 x $40 120mm computer fans 120cu.meters per hour as an inlet and an outlet or better...

2x $50 250mm continuous ball bearing type 600cu.mtr/hour ceiling fans (with or without ducting collars for 250mm flex ducting) one inlet and one outlet

Air inside your roof might be fresh or not? Climb up and spend 10 minutes up there. If you feel comfortable, then the plants will have no problem with that air. If its stuffy, stale, dirty, or hot, then maybe the plants will feel the same. They tend to flourish in the same climate you and I feel comfortable in. In a wardrobe, they tested the CO2 after plants were placed into the wardrobe, and they used up all their Carbon Dioxide in about 5 minutes, then the plants stopped. Considering that the heat from the light needs to be eliminated as well, the overall effect is that the air needs to be changed with fresh 20-25degree air 60 times per hour if no aircon used. 100-200 times if above 25 degrees. (and I think that if I don't emphasize these figures you might think you can fudge them. Typical successful growers may change the air in a room every 10 to 20 seconds.)

Gaping holes in roof tiles, are the main cause of rain in the roof area. Geeze I have a sense of humour... ahem.... Try the vents under the eaves, or a whirlybird thing, or vents at the end of the house fascias, or exhaust back into an area like a patio (just a vent) or into an open garage etc.... Mostly the tiles will vent themselves, so no real problem for a smaller type operation like this.

Simple Warning - I can type long answers - sorry...... :))

Let me know what your next questions are.....

thanks for your reply. it gave great insight. Which system of the ones you mentioned, in your opinion is the best- most efficient, easiest, best yields... I'm ready to buy as soon as I've picked the system. how should I go about cutting 2 clean holes in my roof? thanks man.

Network is the Easiest, and simplest and yields excellent every time. The Other systems are for people who want to play with themselves or their plants. 

Cutting clean holes - Avoid the studs/beams in the ceiling. Consider making the hole the same size as a vent (closing one) or light fitting you can install when the growing is over. 

If Gyprock, Trace a nice line, use a blade out of a hacksaw. Don't cut all the way to the line, just 5-10 mm from it. Use the hacksaw blade, a Stanley knife or sandpaper to trim close up to the line you drew. Nice clean hole. 

If hole is to be hidden, try venting through the roof inside the built in wardrobes if you have them. Fixing the unobtrusive hole later requires much less painting and skill

Good Luck. 

Scott

message leave message in here interested in 400w HPS light kit can I purchase via internet and how much? thank you 

G'day - Thanks for the email

Yes we freight everywhere 

Currently our Mail Order price for a 400Watt is $170 delivered East Coast. 

Elsewhere in Aust $185 

Pickup special is $150 on Gold Coast Only. 

Payment can be by Credit Card, phoned thru, SMS'ed or faxed (don't email credit card details.) Other method is payment into our National Bank Account at a national branch or an Australia Post branch Shipping by Australia Post from "R Andrew" unmarked parcel, care of post office or to your address 

COD is available but Australia post charges apply. Approx $20-$30 on top of our price of $150

Have you any questions about growing under lights I can help with? Probably the Questions section of the website can help without specifics.

Catch you later

Scott

Hi there, is your 423 watt HPS grow system on Ebay. I was just wondering how big the reflector is? also is the ballast pre-assembles and is the kit ready to go when plugged in? cheers 

G'day We have reflectors that will fit in small areas, or larger reflectors. As a general guide a smaller reflector is brighter as a larger reflector requires light to travel further and be dissipated.

Do you have a restricted area for the reflector?

The ballast is in a box ready to plug in the reflector, and screw in the lamp. Ready to go like any appliance.

Only need some basic add ons to run. Inlet fan, exhaust fan (continuous running) Reflective White plastic to keep the light on the plant and also to make the light approach the plants from the side to allow the plants to bush up. Need some chain to hang it up (cheap at $1.50 per meter), and a good timer, either $35 (15amp)or $55 (30 amp) Remember 10 amp timers off the shelf will fail because these lights are fairly hard on timers. They will cause damage to your day length sometimes extending the crop by weeks.

Anything you like we can do - try www.hydrocentre.com.au for more information or just give me an email/phone call

Scott 

 I'm thinking of starting up a setup but I'm not sure what wattage of lights I'll need for the size room. The specs read 1.7m x 1.1m x 1.8m. Is there any type of general rule you should stick to to measure how much light is too much light?

Hello 

A 400Watt will do up to 1mx1m, and be fine down to about half that, but it would begin to get a bit hot. 

A 600Watt will do up to 1.5x1.5m.

You must have at least 10 air changes per hour if cool (under 20-25 degrees all the time) You must have 100-200 Air changes per hour if temp rises above 25 degrees Work out the number of cubic meters and that will give you the capacity of fans required for inlet and outlet.

Our lights come with ballast, lamp and reflector. You might need some chain to hang it up, and it does not come with a timer. One that will not fail is $55. any timer will work for a while, then the large starting and stopping spark, cheap timers will jam in the on position.

Panda (black and white) reflective film is $6 per 3x1meter (roll is 3 meters wide)

Hope that helps

Scott

I live out of town so any questions that can get answered over the net is a great help.
I was actually wondering if you could give me some plans of what to buy just to help me out. I do not want to spend to much. I wanted a system that can support about 10 herbs or Veggies. I will be buying a 400 w HPS Light for now, I was planning on having a 80 litre reservoir with a pump going up and watering the plants via a timer. I am not sure what the plants should be in, and I am also unsure on the nutrients that would be needed (for herbs)  I was just going to use a standard fan that was set also by a  timer for fresh air, co2 and I heard that it strengthens the stem. That's all I really know, but I am still unsure on everything that I will need to buy. 
So, if you guys are able to help me out somehow by just saying, what kind of stuff I should buy, with out going over around $250 - $300.  Its not much, but its a start. I would like to buy it all at once, and it says that you have HPS on sale. So just if you guys just name the products I will need, including all the little things like piping and the connectors and such, and how much you can sell them to me. because I only wanted to make one trip up there because I am a fair way out of town. THANKS HEAPS

Have a look at the 400Watt systems package deals to get more ideas.
If price is important, try hand watering in Perlite.
This is very cheap. A 300mm Pot, saucer and Perlite would be $9.50 each so
10 would be $95
You fill up the saucer with nutrients ($25) and its all very easy.
A 400W light is $150 at the moment,
light timer is $55
and an inlet fan and exhaust fan at $50 each
is necessary to run 24 hours per day.
Some flexible ducting might be helpful as well.
Reflective plastic (white one side, black on the other) is $6 per 3mx1meter
and comes from a 3 meters wide roll.
It would all add up very quickly.

For pumping the Satellite system would be ideal but out of the price range.

Maybe you could give me your thoughts on this so far.

Scott

Hello, I want to have a go at hydro in a closet, I have 400 watt HPS, flood drain system, looking for 2-3 plants, I'm all setup and ready to go, but is there anyone in Gold Coast/Brisbane area that can help me out with seed or clones?? also is it ok to keep cloning off an adult clone, i.e. when this crop gets big I clone off them for the next plants.

If the clone is from an adult, yes sounds pretty good and safe. Having a plant separate and growing it for a couple of years, hacking at it every 6 weeks etc, causes a lot of cumulative stress.

Later > ok, cool so you have veggie seeds for sale, what kind? I am thinking to try out some vegetables first, Also how much to provide me with, 1x 400watt HPS bulb (as spare) grow nutrients, electronic testers and timers, reflective material to line wardrobe.

Yates seeds cover most vegetables. Why not look at the rack in the supermarket. 

A 400 W Phillips lamp is on special for $55 Nutrients, Powergro is most popular at $25 nutrient tester - good one - Truncheon $135 pH waterproof tester, with serviceable and replaceable probe, 12/24 month warranty, general best quality, $115 with test solution Plastic white reflective is $6 per 3x1meter off a 3meter wide roll. Hope that helps Scott 

Later Again> Ok I picked up everything I needed local, but I have tomatoes growing to see if I don't kill them, they were put in 2 days ago and have already started to turn yellow, I done everything that I should have EXCEPT for maybe one thing, I made up a nutrient mix at 1/2 the strength as they are only about 2 -3 inches tall, but I also added a thing called Super Thrive original, on the back it said to put 1/4 teaspoon per 4 litres so I did, THEN I was told I only needed one cap per hydro unit which holds about 37 litres???? have I stuffed up already and should I throw away the nutrient mix and start again?? I used almost a full 30ml bottle, and someone says it should last me ages???

HELP please, also how much do you sell super thrive for?? is there any other products I should be using apart from super thrive and grow nutrients???

Ok Seeds or seedlings. 

If seeds, then they take 3-10 days, so assume seedlings. When we plant seedlings we wash all the soil off to give us nice clean roots. Then we water them with half strength nutrient. If you want to use the entire bottle of super thrive it wouldn't hurt them. Yellowing is usually telling you the roots are too wet. All they need is a little light, not too much or it will be too hot, nice temp you would be comfortable in, and moist to dry media with half strength nutrients Super thrive is not fertilizer, so the plants won't become over fertilized from over use. Imagine you drank too much berocca - vitamins - and all you would do is feel good. I use 1 drop per litre (about 1ml per 30litres), and up to 10 drops per litre (about 1ml per 3 litres) for high doses. 

Hope that helps. 

Scott

I have just sprouted my seeds by soaking them in cotton wool buds. and I haven't yet purchased my growing medium. I am actually a bit confused as it is my first time with hydroponics. Now I understand the lighting and watering and all that, I just don't understand exactly what the plants grow in. (is it a bucket with wool or what size rock wool do you use) just stuff like that. So if you could tell me what size buckets or rock wool or what ever you need for the actual plant to grow in. That would be muchly, appreciated, and I will buy it when I am coming in to buy my HPS light. Thanks

Hello
Can I make the first suggestion to never use cotton wool.
Never.
Get some Perlite, Rockwool cubes, even dirt would be better.

Why not have a look at the products page at www.hydrocentre.com.au and you will find all the ways of growing that are popular.
They are not the only ways, there are 100's more but to tell you which is the right one is impossible.
Some are easy some are hard
some are designed for low maintenance, some for everyday.
Have a look and give me another email when you've got some ideas and I will be able to help with some directions

Have a great day

Scott

Is it recommended to re-use the soil 1st or 2nd time around after the first crop? Any thoughts? Thanks

Don't re-use soil. Any problems start compounding, and is a waste of your investment. Try hydroponic media like Perlite instead

If thinking of re-using growing media remember, remove all dead root matter, rinse (remove old nutrients and salts) and sterilize (kill any pathogens).

Scott

I have a fan hooked up to my light and if the fan turns off I want the light to turn off as well

Just so we all understand the question, the fan should run all the time; separate to the light timer and light hours. Airflow when the light is off is more critical because of the drop in air temperature causes moisture to condense on the walls, plants etc; especially if ventilation is not provided.

If the fan was to fail however, how would we stop the light from cooking the plants? If the fan trips the circuit breaker, and the light is on the same circuit, then the lights will go out. There are fans that have internal overheating circuit which turns off the fan in the event that the blades get jammed, or the motor seizes. This would not trip the circuit breaker. Other events might cause ventilation to fail without the circuit breaker tripping like the blades falling off or slipping without turning and the motor still running. So this is not a true solution.

A relay would be a good idea, and I do understand how it would be a good idea, but it assumes that the power will fail and the relay will turn off light power. 

Overall it won't become a failsafe. The only safe way I would say is to run two separate exhaust fans, as well as a fan circulating air, so all 3 would have to fail before heat would completely overwhelm the plants.

Keep the lights and fans on the same circuit. If the electricity fails in some way, the lights are off anyway. If I think of anything else I'll update this later.

Scott

I just bought SUPERBUD, a product of Dutch Master. The instruction said: Apply Superbud within the first 2 weeks of "reducing light cycle" Can u explain what does it mean "reducing light cycle"

Scott responds

Yes Superbud can be used in many ways. Some people use it when the light cycle is changed, and the product will initiate fast, and intense flowering/fruiting. It is important if using this method to grow the plant to a decent size as the plant will grow no bigger (1 inch at most!!!)
Most people wait until flowering and when the flowers/fruit are fully formed. Then there is no decrease in yield because the plant is already the right size. The intensity of flowering then improves yields.

Scott

In the same given area, what is the difference, in terms of the yield factor, between 2X 600W HPS and 1X 1000W HPS? Will I produced an equal amount of yield using 2X 600W compare to 1X 1000W HPS light.? Thanks

Well lots of variance here. I generally believe you will get marginally more with a 1000W if the room is 20-25 degrees than a 600 Watt light. If it is over 30 degrees, then a 600Watt will generally do better. Humidity would play a factor too. Stress from heat and high humidity will likely cause the plant to under perform, and lose any brightness benefit.

If you think of 1000 Watts going into a light system and 140,000 lumens (if ideal) coming out is equal to 140 lumens per watt, and a 600Watt at 90,000 lumens is 150 lumens per watt, the 600Watt is more efficient in producing light. Where does the excess energy go? into heat! So a 1000Watt is a more efficient heater than the 600Watt.

As a comparison, a 1000Watt Metal Halide puts out between 100,000 and 125,000 lumens which is 100-125 lumens per watt and is a more efficient heater again.

Pity about the light output.  

The advantage with 1000 Watt lights is that 4 feet from the light is 1/16th the light output. (according to Gardening Indoors by George Van Patten) and a 1000Watt HPS would be 8750 lumens in theory. As plants respond to 1000-5000lumens, there is more than maximum light available at 4ft. A 600 Watt at 4 ft is 5600 lumens, so still enough.

At 5ft from the lamp, a 1000Watt is now 1/25th of 140,000 lumens - or 5600 lumens - still above the 5000 max lumens. Great! But a 600Watt is down to 3600, so is not at maximum anymore.

If your plants are within the 4-5 feet mark from the lamp a 600watt should produce similar results to a 1000Watt. If the plants are 6feet away we are getting a distinct advantage with a 1000Watt. But then there is time....

To grow short plants under a 600W and turn them over quickly (more crops per year) should give you a better long term yield (Queensland concept) than a 1000Watt where to get any advantage you have to grow them bigger, and that means longer. Your yield is up per plant, but not per light, because the time period is greater, and less crops per year can be grown (South Australian Concept). This is fine if you are limited to so many plants. 

This is not to be confused with the European idea of 400Watts and put cuttings straight to flowering (many more crops per year) but the yield is offset by lots of work. The plants are finishing every few weeks, and its a hard job keeping enough mother/donor plants alive to service the euro concept.

So generally a 600W is close to or equal to a 1000W, and 2x600's should produce nearly twice what a 1000Watt alone does. I would put one light per 1mx1m to 1.5mx1.5m - and never more than this. 

Scott

we have a 400 watt. ballast it has 84 d or o fp auto type 1-400 w s-51 H.P.S. la input 120/208/240/277v @4.2/2.3/2.1/1.8 amps 60hz type 4 r l both written backwards sola electric cat.#79-40-19705 48mfd 270v min that is what is written on it I NEED A WIRE DIAGRAM OF IT ALL FROM PLUG IN TO LIGHT PLEASE?

Scott: Sorry - Can't help you there. Recommend you ask an electrician to wire it up for you. Simple problem is someone needs to be looking at it, and check all the components to advise how it goes together. All ballasts are not the same wiring diagram.

Scott

Should I switch to a blooming plant food as soon as I switch to a 12/12 light cycle? What is available to me is Schultz Expert Bloom Plus 10-60-10. Is this plant food acceptable for hydroponics? It contains chelated iron, manganese and zinc not all of the micros I know. Should I also add the hydro plant food I use for vegetative stage which does contain all the micro nutrients? Thanks from a newbie

Scott Responds:

Its a bit difficult to say when to change to a bloom nutrient. When changing the light hours we suggest keeping the vegetative (high nitrogen) as we usually observe stretching if we go straight to bloom (higher phosphorus, potassium, but less nitrogen).

Since the plant does not instantly change its nutritional requirements and takes around a week to start to change, I would suggest changing to bloom when the flower buds first begin their formation, or around a week after the hours are changed. By keeping up the nitrogen, the growth is not stretched, and we match what the plant wants nutritionally.

Shultz does not appear to be a Hydroponic solution - although I am not familiar with it. I went to their site and there is not much information on its content there. http://www.schultz.com/bloomplus.htm What a nutrient must have is Calcium in Calcium Nitrate format, and should be in a separate pack in the case of a power like this product. (A+B solution) It also screams out warning at me that it claims to have the highest phosphorus level of major brands, and that is only useful in soil.

In Australia our fertilizers have to list components as a total analysis, either W/V (weight per volume), or ppm (parts per million). This is excellent for us because it makes it easier for the Hydroponic Companies. In America they still use NPK (Nitrogen to Phosphorus to Potassium ratio) and we still use this to discuss ratios in soil mixes.

The problem is that in soil, particularly acid soils, phosphorus is very insoluble, like a rock. A plant needs a lot of it to be present in order to suck enough out of the soil. In Hydroponics, we use pure minerals, in the correct pH range, and phosphorus becomes a minor element to something like Nitrogen. (I can feel the steam rising in the horticulturalists heads now) If we use NPK ratios the bigger the ratio the more customers think is better. So in USA they don't put 1:6:1, or 2:12:2, they put 10:60:10, and next year their competitors will bring out a 15000:90000:15000 and so it goes.

Its all an NPK of 1:6:1, and a hydroponic bloom solution might be best listed as 4:1:8, quite a different P level and the Nitrogen as Nitrate is more soluble than the Ammonium form used in many soil fertilizers. So a soil fertilizer is best used with ammonium N that gives the higher number to sell more product. The reasons for ammonium is that it is cheaper, breaks down in soil so it has  long life. Nitrates are the broken down form of ammonium, used because the Hydroponic solution has no way to break it down, it must be ready to use, and this makes solutions a little more expensive that chook (chicken) poo! If they used the best fertilizer components then you could use it for Hydroponics and the NPK ratio would be useless, when in fact it will never be a representation of how nutritionally useful the fertilizer is as a whole.

I like the fact you picked up on chelates, which are a better form of minor elements like iron. Iron Sulphate is fairly hard to pick up in a solution, but when its bonded organically as a chelate, it is more available. This is a good thing in soil too. 

If all the micro elements are not there that plant will get none. No way you can use such a product as a nutrient. Micro and minor elements control processes that allow plants to access major elements, and it just gets really complicated when you go down the soil fertilizer design area. Everyone has a different idea, and they all think they are right.

So what do you do. Call your nearest Hydroponic supplier and get some real hydroponic solution. Just like we might survive on french fries as our only source of food, the plant may get something out of a soil solution. It won't be balanced, and the plant will be sick long before harvest. What a waste of time and effort that would be.

Scott 

Thanks for the input, Scott. Assuming I do downgrade to a 600W or 400W (which would you recommend?), what sort of ventilation setup would you suggest so I'd still be able to run the light enclosed in the 2x3 foot area without going over 85F? I greatly appreciate all your advice.

Scott responds;

In that area you will need around 120 air changes per hour, which means that in around 30 seconds fresh air is drawn in, heated by the light and vented. In 30 seconds, not a lot of heating will happen. In fact you might keep an eye on inlet temperatures, to ensure that the incoming air is never so cold that you chill the plants too much.

Work out your height x length x width and you will have cubic feet/meters and then find a fan that will do 120 times that cubic capacity per hour. If your squirrel fan is not enough (find out its capacity from retailer/manufacturer) add a second fan.

Good luck

Scott

I'm running a 1000Watt HPS in a room that is 2 x 3 feet. Obviously, enclosed it gets quite hot. I'm using a squirrel fan to air cool the lights, but it just doesn't seem to do the job. Any suggestions on how to cool the light and still be able to keep it enclosed would be most appreciated. Thanks

Scott responds:

The light is in too small an area. 600x900mm is way too small. 1mx1m would need air conditioners. You really will find it counterproductive to use too much light.

If you do get the room cool, the radiant heat (think contact heat) from the lamp will still make the plants hot. As it is, I believe a 400Watt would actually give you higher yields because of the area.

Sometimes a sheet of glass installed between the plants and the light will enable you to run a separate fan above the glass for the heat of the light. I believe it will all be a waste of time.

At least trade it in for a 600Watt or move to a larger area.

Scott (and sorry - must be honest)

The heat will be generated by 4 x 600w ballasts. The walls and ceiling are insulated, however I am still concerned with this heat (area mentioned). I realize extensive air exchange is extremely important, regardless of temperatures. I am also curious as to how a well built ventilation system would assist in temperature control??

Of course, I will be ordering from your wonderful company, however after looking at your different fans listed on your web site, you don't include the wattage required for your fans.

Thanks again for your help.

Scott responds

Air circulation should be 10-15 air changes per hour for fresh air if using air-conditioning or cold climate (temp never gets over 25 degrees). Don't install big fans if using air-conditioning as they suck all your cold air out and air-conditioning won't be working at all. (timers and dimmers can be used to reduce volumes of big fans, but just as cheap to go to a smaller fan.

Use at least 60-100 air changes per hour without air conditioning in a hot environment. This should ensure that lights do not heat up the air much beyond the intake temperature. Some growers say 200 air changes are best per hour ( That is around 3 air changes per minute) So if your incoming air is 30 degrees, then with air taking say, 1 minute to come in, circulate and leave the room, it might heat up to 35 degrees. Therefore if you double the airflow, it might only rise by half that amount.

CRITICAL CARE: I understand you get 5-6 days of heat extremes. On 40 degree days in your area the plants will wilt without air-conditioning. You should turn on a fluro or house light in the room, and have it come on and off at normal times to ensure the day length is the same and turn the 600 watt lights off. This is like a cloudy humid day, but they won't or shouldn't wilt. Keeping temperatures below 30 degrees is fairly important.

Your room is 2.5x2.5x3m so your cubic volume is 18.75

Fans are rated by their cubic volume. http://www.hydrocentre.com.au/ventilation/index.html  has the info.

Wattage for fans is minimal 10W standard to 80Watts for very big fans. Just let me know what fans your thinking of and I'll get the wattages for you.

On a final point about heat. If you can locate ballasts and tanks outside of the growroom then heat will be reduced. Attaching ducting to reflectors to suck air off the bulb will make a very big difference and you will be able to put the lights closer and get better yields too. Hope that helps Keep in touch 

Scott

my room is 3.4m x2.6mx2.4m high, can u please work out the time with flow rate set at 8lt. I have a book but it is in pound per sq ft. & cubic ft. cheers south ozzie grower great site love it

Yes, well this is time for the maths. You need to have 1500ppm of CO2 to get a bonus in growth. There should be 300-350 in the air, and their will be some leakage in the room, and short of buying an infra red tester (Around $900 Aust) we better do some calculations based on 1500-300=1200ppm

The injector should be in litres per minute, so if we want to add 1500 parts per 1 million parts of air in the room, we will need to know how many litres to add, so we need to know how many litres of air are in the room. 

1 litre is 10cm x 10cm x 10cm or 1000cubic centimeters, or 1000cc

your room is 340x260x240 in cm = 21216000cc

1000cc=1litre so the room is 21,216litres

so what is 1200parts per million

21216 divided by 1 million multiplied by 1200 = 25.5 litres

By injecting that into that size room, the ppm should be right.

The injector is set to do 5 litres per minute for 5 minutes, or 25litres for 1 minute - what ever to get 25 litres

If you are NOT USING THE ENTIRE AREA!!!!! then close in the area you are using with white panda plastic curtains and recalculate.

Make sure that you exhaust all the CO2 out before any reinjection. Try 100 air changes to be sure.

Scott 

About how many cuttings/clones at a time can be taken from a donor plant/mother plant? Is there a percentage of growing tips that can be taken all at the same time without killing the donor plant/mom?

You can cut the plant back for a lot of reasons and the plant comes back stronger. The parent needs to have some leaves on it to get energy to get growing again. 

If you are trying to avoid stress so you can cut cuttings from it again and again later on, maybe avoid taking too much, say 1/4 (25%) of the total plant mass in one session. Sometimes it is safer to use a cutting/clone and grow it back to replace the mother plant to avoid the cumulative stress and heavy wooded effect of old plants.

It is unlikely you will kill a plant by pruning it heavily, but stress and infections could kill a plant in 5% of cases if you were unlucky/particularly vicious. 

Remember one simple unbreakable rule for plant growing: If you had a sick child and didn't take them to the doctor, and they die, they call it murder. If you plant gets sick and you don't contact someone and it dies....you murdered it! So if the plant doesn't look perfect, call me, email me, send smoke signals, do something! 

It really stuns me how many people say to me, my plant died. My response is, When did it get sick, I don't remember hearing from you, how can you learn how to solve that problem without calling me.

And off my soapbox, sorry about that. Had one of those frustrating days. Don't mean to take it out on anyone. Hope that top information helps...Happy Cloning! Have a great day!

Scott with his clones

Recycled plastic crate for a system controller/brain? How bad is it to use the fish bins. Just pulled a bad crop; would this cause that. 

Also does recycled plastic brains cause high pH levels

Scott responds;

Recycled plastics can be anywhere between normal to toxic. Growers I know have used them and had no problems, used the same crate a crop later and had everything drop dead. An example is when a grower sent just a corner cut from a tank away to a laboratory, the first thing that the laboratory report said was "don't handle that crate with your bare hands". Apart from Arsenic at deadly levels, it had lots of other toxins, the worst being lead. 

The fillers used also break down. Do you remember the taste of water you get from a hose on a hot day. Plastic and terrible. If you recycled water through that hose over an over the plastic taste would get much stronger. 

Its not worth the risk. The first indication that there is a problem is the pH goes out most of the time, and you can't work out why.

Don't confuse this with reground plastic containers, where new (never used) plastic containers are ground into bits and re melted into something else. These are usually fine.

Scott 

thanks heaps for your advise on this, now another quick one please, I have two 400watt halogen lights, what is the right dimension room I should be using for these lights an how many plants should I have in there? Also, in the first growing stages, i was using one light for 18hrs, an in bloom was using 2 lights on 12 hrs. Is it better to use both during the grow stages or can u get by with just one? Thanks heaps once again.

Scott responds

Light types for Hydroponics are Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium. (Halogens are no good) If you mean 400W Metal Halide or High Pressure Sodium then the area covered is 1 meter x 1 meter.

If you have plants that are or will be 300mm across, then you can put one plant per 300mmx300mm. 
If the plant is or will be 500mm across then 500mmx500mm. Plants should not compete for light. The plants will be smaller when growing and can be closer together. They will still need good lighting, so once the plants are too big to be covered by one light, you will need to use both.

Scott

Scott Responds

Lighting requires higher quality timers as normal Australian 10 amp timers just stick in the on position.
When a light starts it is a spark many times greater than its wattage, and the contacts weld together.

A 10 amp timer with 15 amp contactor with dial mechanical clock is $35 and can handle one 400W or 600W light. The clock is German and very reliable.
This is a JBL 10 amp timer with a 30 amp timer with digital interface, and a battery backup, is $50 and can handle up to 1000Watt of lighting (2x400W is ok, 600W+400W is ok)
A 15 amp timer (different plug) with Inductive load contactor (like factory machinery) 4 10 amp lighting outlets can handle 2400W if used with a normal power outlet or 3600W if used with a 15 amp supply.
Hope all that helps

Scott

I have found these insects congregating around the water inlets and grow wool and are not sure what they are or how to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Response by Scott

Yep, 3 products, 1 is guardian, it is a 24 hour insecticide, so mix it up and apply it. There will be no trace in 24 hours. 2nd product is a Drench that is really Sheep dip. Its the most toxic stuff in the world, as it even kills ticks! You put it in your root zone and then flush it after an hour or two. And you pray your plants don't suck much up. The root bugs roughly amount to thousands of species of local insect most of which haven't even got a name. The main thing is not all eat your roots. Kill them anyway with Guardian. Those bugs that do eat your roots are killed by guardian, except a few super bugs that seem to be half bug half kryptonite proof! Use the dip, or toss the plants when they die. Either way, use guardian, then if they are still moving get something stronger.

If Guardian doesn't work, Customers have told me that Diazamin at 1ml/10litres (3 drops per litre) watered into the root system for 24 hours then flushed (24 hours only) kills the bugs. If you leave it longer it makes many plants sick, however, some customers report 2ml/10litres works. might be different types of plants.

Hi Scott, A recurring nightmare in the form of spider mites are a concern. Predators, Sprays, Fumigation???? I would appreciate your help with this one mate!

Scott Responds