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Gardening
indoors under
artificial lighting. This
booklet should only be used as a guide. Lighting
Setup ·
Lighting
is the most important aspect of growing a plant, either indoors or outdoors. ·
When
growing indoors we need to ensure the lighting system we get is the correct
light spectrum (colouring) and is bright enough without being too hot for the
plants. ·
Lighting
systems are made up of three parts, the lamp, the reflector, and the control
box (or ballast). ·
Phillips
make a good 423 Watt lamp called a SON T AGRO 400 Watt. These lamps use around
4cents per hour. General Electric also make good lamps. they make a 400watt,
600watt and 1000 watt LucaGrow Lamp, and use 4cents, 6cents and 12 cents of
electricity per hour respectively. ·
When
no other sunlight or lighting is available, we recommend 400 Watt lamps for an
area of up to 1 meter by 1 meter and plants up to 60cm tall. (sidelighting can
assist plants to a greater height) ·
We
recommend 600 Watt lamps for an area of 1.5 meters by 1.5 meters and plants up
to 75cm tall. (sidelighting can always assist plants to grow higher.) ·
The
reflector design varies depending on the height of the plants and the area
requiring illumination. Highly recommend that you seek advice regarding
reflector design. ·
Control
Boxes all look the same. THEY ARE NOT. Price is a good guide. A good ballast
will be completely safe, will not emit noise, or large amounts of heat. They
will match the lamp precisely, and will ensure the light levels are as close
to 100% output of the lamps design. Cheap control boxes may not be any of
these. Please ask for advice before buying any equipment built in the back of
hydroponic stores. Imagine if I sold you a five litre bottle of nutrient and
it was missing a litre of nutrient. Some cheap ballasts output 20% below lamps
nominal rating. This will reduce yield. Ventilation
Setup ·
You
will need to supply fresh air to the plants as they need fresh quantities of
Carbon Dioxide ·
Ventilation
will stop grow rooms becoming excessively hot, as well as supplying life
giving fresh air. ·
You
will need an inlet fan to let cool air and CO2 into the growing area. This is
best situated low, as cool air is heavy and sinks closer to the ground. ·
You
will need an exhaust fan to draw hot air and CO2 weak air out of the growing
area. This is best located high as Hot air rises to the top of the growing
area. ·
You
will need an oscillating fan to blow fresh air into the foliage ·
You
will need to change the air as often as possible. Minimum would be around 60
air changes per hour and ideal would be up to 120 changes per hour. Use Panda
Film Plastic sheeting to create a growing area, and multiply height with width
and depth, e.g. 1m x1m x 2.5m (height) = 2.5 cubic meters. You would need a
fan to deliver around 150 to 300 cubic meters per hour of fresh air, or to
remove that amount of stale air every hour.
If a room is sealed, an inlet fan is also recommended. ·
Plants
grow best in the same sort of environment we find comfortable. Ideal
temperatures would vary per plant, but around 25 degrees, and 40 to 60%
humidity would be ideal. So as a guide, if you think that its too hot or cold,
too humid or the air is stale, then the plants will feel that too and will not
perform to the best they can. ·
Get
advice before purchasing an exhaust fan. Some fans are not designed to run
continuously e.g. Bath room fans. These will either fail or make terrible a
terrible noise and keep you up all night. If a fan fails during a hot day
plants may get very sick as well. Stages
of Growth ·
There
are several stages a growing plant will go through, but mostly, they can be
characterised by three stages of growth - Seedlings and clones (cuttings),
Vegetative, Flowering. 1.
Seedlings and clones (cuttings) ·
All
a seed needs to germinate is warmth and moisture. Refrigerate seed at around 4
degrees in a dry container to get seeds to germinate faster. 2-4 days should
do it. ·
A
seed has all the nutrients it needs in the husk of the seed. ·
Generally,
the medium (rockwool, perlite, peat) used to germinate a seed must be well
draining, but remain moist to the touch. Although moisture levels may vary for
different varieties, the medium must not be too wet. The media is best
described as not dry and never very wet.( Another description of moisture
levels could be described as like a sponge used to wipe a counter. Not so wet
as to leave water on the counter, but not so dry that it does not clean.) ·
Taking
a cutting of your favourite plant is an excellent way to ensure a good plant.
This method of propagation is a form of Cloning, as the offspring has the same
genetic information as the parent/ (or mother plant). For advice on cloning,
ask your staff member. Clones take about 10 to 14 days of rooting before they
can be placed into a growing system. Use a cloning gel and a clear lidded
propagator to get best results. Ask for our cloning booklet for more
information. ·
Once
a seed has sprouted, or a clone is striking roots it is a good idea to give it
some indirect light in preparation for its first leaves.
( Lighting should be Fluorescent close to the tops of the seedling or a
Son Agro about 5 feet or 1.5 meters from the seedlings/cuttings. Any closer
will dry out your plants as they have under developed root systems) The
Seedling will sprout with small "false" leaves (cotyldons or seed
leaves), but when the first true leaves appear it is a good indication that
the seedling now has roots and you should apply nutrient from now. ·
For
the first week, half strength nutrient can be applied to seedlings. It should
be noted that the first two weeks of life are critical. If a plant does not
have a good start, then you can say generally that the plant will not grow to
be an excellent plant. 2.
The Vegetative Cycle. ·
Once
a seedling becomes a young plant, and clones have roots, full strength
nutrient should be used ( On average 2 to 4 sets of true leaves is a young
plant). Using a CF meter, adjust your nutrient to the correct strength for
your crop. If you do not own a meter yet, mix nutrients according to pack
directions. Our staff should be able to provide you with specific crop
directions. ·
Lamps
should be 1 to 2 Feet from the tops of the plants. Hold your hand at the top
of the plant and check that is not excessively hot on your hand as this may be
too hot for the plants. Close to the plants is good, however, they should not
be hotter than you could deal with. ·
The
Photo period or length of artificial daylight is best set at 18 Hours with a
normal household timer. Other "day" lengths are discussed below. ·
The
rate of growth will gradually become faster; Young plants usually grow slower
than they do when they become more mature. ·
Plants
have been flowered as early as six weeks old (approx) but better end results
occur when the plants are eight weeks old before reducing the light hours. The
plants are growing at such a rate that they give better results if their
metabolic (physical) age and chronological (actual) ages have a chance to
catch up on each other. Clones are already mature adults even when small. Once
the plants are given enough time to settle in, they can be put into a 12 hour
cycle to cause them to flower. ·
It
is during the Vegetative stage that growers should take their cuttings or
clones. For more detailed information on cloning, please consult our staff. 3.
The Reproductive Cycle. ·
The
Light hours can be reduced to produce Flowering or Fruiting. Once the light
hours are reduced to 12 Hours, ensure that the plants receive NO LIGHT at all
during their dark 12 Hour "night". Should you open a door to your
growroom and allow light from a hallway light to enter the room during their
12 hour sleep, this will stress the plants by "waking" the plants up
and putting them back to "sleep". ·
Stress
is to be avoided at all stages of growth. This stress will slow the flowering
process. Beware power blackouts as this can cause your timer to switch lights
on during their night. Some growers use 11 hours of light so that any change
in day length will be unlikely to encroach upon their 12 hours of
uninterrupted darkness. Use a good Digital timer with a backup memory
to avoid light length problems. ·
Plants
require less nitrogen during this cycle, and will consume more Phosphorus.
There are two ways to combat this. Either increase the strength of your
nutrient, or purchase one of the range of Bloom solutions/additives available. ·
Flowers
generally will be visible in one to four weeks. From then it is only a matter
of time for your plant to produce ripe fruit or fully form their flowers.
Plants can be harvested and an 18 Hour Vegetative Cycle begun again. It is
generally better to restart from seed or cuttings. Usually 8 week flowering is
most common. TIPS ·
When
assembling your light for the first time, screw the bulb in until it is finger
tight, and then give it a little more of a twist to ensure a firm contact.
After a week to two weeks, the contacts will have worn in, and could need a
little more of a turn. Please check the lamps are fully screwed in. ·
Many
people use nylon rope to hang their lights. Please ensure they do not contact
the bulb and melt. We recommend welded link chain. Unfortunately, these do not
go through pulleys very well, but it can be easier to unhook the light and
move it up a couple of links at a time. ·
Make
sure your plants are well ventilated. A plant is 90% water and carbon. The
only way a plant can take in Carbon is through the Carbon Dioxide in the air.
If the Carbon Dioxide content in the garden is not replenished, plants will
grow more slowly and could develop problems. ·
The
optimum temperature of the growroom is between 22 and 25 degrees Celcius and
the optimum Humidity levels lie between 40% and 60% Relative Humidity.
Generally, it may be difficult to obtain this range of temperature and
humidity, however as a general rule, try to keep the room as close to the
optimums and most plants will adapt themselves to their environment. Try to
avoid sudden leaps of humidity or temperature as this may shock your plants.
(e.g. opening up everything on the weekend, and then closing them up for the
rest of the week) If you maintain the environment within the optimum ranges,
you will see a much better growth rate. ·
There
are other essentials to good growing. these include Root moisture to oxygen
ratio, pH (Acidity/Alkalinity), and Nutrient strength. Call us if your plants
do not look perfect ·
Replace
lamps every 9-12 months or less if you want to keep lamp output at maximum. As
a general rule, never trust second hand equipment. If a lamp has been run, it
is most likely to be close to or over 12 months of running. Avoid all second
hand ballasts especially if it has been dropped or is not a domestic design,
you can end up with a ballast and fuse blowing up, or smoke and flame in your
growroom. All our Ballasts are guaranteed not to have these problems and have
been designed for home application and are extremely safe. We
are open from 9:00am till 5:30pm weekdays for your convenience. On
Saturdays we are open from 9am until 1pm; We
can be open outside these times by calling ahead. This
brochure is Copyright 2000 by Nerang Hydroponics Centre Shop
17 / 39 Lawrence Drive Nerang Qld 4211. Phone
(07) 5527 4155 Visit
us on the Web www.hydrocentre.com.au |
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Mail Orders (contact us) or call us on 07 5527-4155 in Australia, or visit our store at 27 Lawrence Drive Nerang |